Arctic Kingdom's Narwhal & Polar Bear Safari - Day 4

After a restful sleep I woke to a super warm tent, I blasted the heater for a while before turning it down, it was so nice to wake up feeling so toasty! I'm starting to learn the tricks of staying warm - whether it be using plastic Ziploc bags over my feet in my boots (it works!), which layers work best, when to use the feet warmers, when to turn on the heater, warm my clothes and sit by the fire.

As we’re loading the sleds a polar bear is spotted near camp, sniffing us out cautiously moving towards us. Slowly, he approaches something, takes a heavy pounce right on a seal hole. Lucky for the seal he didn't succeed, not so lucky for him. Good sign for what's to come of the day.

Back at the floe edge, Arctic Kingdom sets up home base with all the usual luxuries, while we situate our tripods to settle in for the day. It doesn't take long for the first narwhals to start making their way through. Some amazing tail flukes, followed by tusks and more tusks! Some are traveling in pairs, others in small groups, then it's rush hour on the narwhal highway. Huge groups making their way through, coming up from the southern part of the floe edge and heading north.

The Arctic is fascinating - all perception and routine is lost. What seem to be a few kilometers away can be twenty. The sounds are out of this world; you can hear the narwhal breathing, whistling, before you can even see them.

Lunch consists of soup with photography. Robin serves barbequed shish kebabs to my camera spot so I don't have to leave. Ahh…service.

Time to put on the survival suits and get into the water for some kayaking! It's my first time...ever, and I get to try it here, off the ice in some of the coldest waters on the planet!

Jane gives us all a lesson and into the water we go. I'm paired up with 10-year-old Bea, spunky little thing she is. Bea likes to talk more and play around with her paddle than actually paddle. We go quite a distance and she's ready to turn around. My arms are aching, but we all want to go farther.

I’m trying to be nice: "Bea, paddle, don't put the breaks on you're making me work harder, Bea be quiet, Bea your splashing me the way your paddling". Bea knows she’s wearing on me and says, “You don’t like me as your partner anymore, do you, Natasha?” Oh my gosh, haha. All I can do is laugh; I’m seriously exhausted, but wouldn’t trade this for the world.

We glide past sparkling ice chunks with bright blue reflections coming from below the water, narwhal in the distance. We gently paddle closer and are within 50 feet of them. No one else around except our group of 8. The feeling of being in a kayak so close makes me speechless. On the return I figured out in order to get Bea to help, to count the paddles...1,2,3,4...she counts all the way back to shore and amazingly gives it everything she's got for those last 670 strokes.

We've been out for 8 hours and it feels like 4. So much action but we have to get back for dinner, and not soon after we're back on the ice, greeted by more narwhal. The sun is out and the light is amazing this evening. Birds skimming by and overhead, the waters are calm. Returning back to camp just in time for the midnight sun, reflecting on a truly amazing day. How does one go to sleep with such a majestic world happening outside? Put up the dark window in the tent, roll into my warm bed with a heated water bottle and look forward for what tomorrow will bring.

Arctic Kingdom's Narwhal & Polar Bear Safari - Day 3

Today started in the middle of the night, Sheatie calling to the tents at 230am, "polar bear, polar bear...do you want to see the polar bear?” I’m confused, the sun is low on the horizon and after just getting to sleep I finally realize what’s happening and throw on my boots.

The backdrop is a dreamscape - pastel blues and whites of the mountains, the fog shading its peaks and curves. Next to the iceberg a polar bear is peacefully marching along the ridge, curiously looking over us, disappearing below the cracks, then peeks his head up over a large chunk of ice, staring at us, slowly sliding over, nose in the air smelling our scent as he circles around. Our Inuit guides quietly stand back, with their rifles, watching his actions and constantly assessing. The bear is just as curious as us, wandering off in the distance I go crawl back into bed.

After a delicious breakfast it's finally time to hit the floe edge! The fog has been continually rolling in and out; the mountains clear as day one moment and zero visibility the next. I feel as though the rest of the world doesn't exist and we’re the only existence.

The convoy of sleds arrive at the edge, a scene from frozen planet, the sky is amazing - white cloudy fog over the ice, but over the open water, it’s a dark grey - both reflecting that which is below. Flocks of birds stream across the sky, seals popping their heads in and out of the water watching us, going about their business. The day camp is set up like its a day at the beach, lawn chairs to line ourselves along the edge, an area filled with snacks, coffee and tea, a heated tent in case we get cold and need a warm up, and finally, a lone bathroom tent. Totally impressive.

I've quickly learned that in the arctic, it's a "hurry up and wait" game. There’s a lot of time waiting for the action, although it passes with pleasant conversations with fellow travelers and our guides. I really enjoy chatting with our local experts about how they live, grew up, their thoughts on things like global warming, schooling, the knowledge that has been passed down by elders.

Its not long before we get our first narwhal sightings, their camouflaged grey and white skin surfacing gracefully, you can hear them breathing as they move along, and finally I see a tusk project from the water! A while later I see what looks to be a piece of ice, with a closer look its a polar bear swimming about 50 feet from us, watching the shore as he slowly disappears into the fog.

The kitchen crew arrives on their sleds with a full spread ready for us - hot soup, fresh cheeses, salami and crackers - the food here is amazing and everyone is overly impressed including Heather and Bea from London who are vegan - they were expecting to eat rice and vegetables all week and have been blown away from the chefs creativity...we’re all a little jealous of their special meals, dumpling soup, Indian curries, and chocolate brownies.

Late in the afternoon a group of us decides to walk back to camp...the fog rolls in once again and it's like we're walking into heaven, sheer whiteness, our feet crunching along breaking the sound of the silence breaks as we follow the snowmobile tracks. Our Inuit guide Jeffery is with us, Jane with her rifle...safety precautions. The ice is flat in some places and quickly changes to little hills and chunks of ice, a perfect place for a bear to be chilling out. The walk takes us over an hour – daily workout…check.

It's down time and some people take advantage to have a nap (probably a good idea). Its too beautiful out so I find a comfy spot to chill out, listen to music and observe (people watching in the Arctic, maybe?)…a few of the guides are pumping out water from around the tents where it looks like a small mote, Sheatie’s team is busy tuning up the snowmobiles and the kitchen crew prepping for dinner.

Another tasty meal of marinated flank steak, fish, grilled zucchini, beet and carrot salad, it's back out to the flow edge.

The wind has completely disappeared and the water is like glass. Perfect setting for an abundance of narwhal! Alas…the evening is quiet and we spend more time watching birds and seals. The silence is deafening. The sound of the birds flapping as they swoop by is crystal clear, even in the distance one can hear them clearly as they land and lightly glide above the water.

Time to head back and we ask for 15 more minutes…that passes and I switch out my lenses, just as Andy announces last call for the bathroom before he takes it down - "narwhal!". Of course! Frantically switching back my lens and juggling to get the camera back on the tripod, the whale stays with us for a few minutes and I'm able to get some good tail shots as he takes a deep dive. All and all no complaints for today. We're all hoping for the fog to be gone tomorrow, and looking forward to more sightings.

Arctic Kingdom's Narwhal & Polar Bear Safari - Day 2

An early morning start we head back to the cultural centre for a mandatory briefing from Parks Canada, learning about rules within Sirmilik National Park, polar bear safety, and history of the Thule people, ancestors of the present day Inuit. 

Finally it's time to go to the beach to begin our journey across the ice! Me and Beatrice,  along with our guide Jane hop in the back of the pickup truck for the drive across town (everyone else uses the hotel van but we opt for the northern way). Bea, as we call her, is a fun, super intelligent 10 year old who's been dreaming of seeing narwhals for a few years now. She literally knows everything about them, I call her our mini-guide. It's fun to have her around, her silliness and excitement rubs off, I can't wait to see her face when we see our first narwhal.

We're met on the shores by our local Inuit experts, and additional guides with Arctic Kingdom who've been preparing for the journey - Andy and Dave. Most trips like this, that are highly experiential, need that 'access person' for the region - ours is Sheatie Tagak, a 64 year old elder, he knows the land inside and out. His smiling face and giddy personality is warming. Sheatie chooses (locals from Pond Inlet) who he wants to come to the floe edge and most are related to him in some way. In addition to the team with us now, there's others waiting for us at camp - Camp Manager Angus, Sous Chef Robin, Head Chef Phil and Calm (along with a resident Inuk). 

It's time to load the sleds! Layered up, this will be the coldest part of the trip, 5-7 hours in the Qamatik being pulled by snow mobile to the floe edge (with stops along the way). I've got 2 pairs of thermals on, a thick fleece, goose 

down under jacket, parka, snow pants, and my handy never fail Bog boots. 

The coldness, well, yes, it gets told at times. Maybe its because I'm accustomed to cold Calgary winters, but the beauty of the area outweighs the annoyance of the cold, and you just learn to deal with it. I watch fellow travellers - warming up by cuddling together (looks pretty romantic, actually), others who make a bed on the bottom of the sled, wrapped up in all sorts of layers and sheltered from the extremes - or some of us who can't help but to stand up with the wind blasting right into your face and take it all in.

Pond Inlet is soon out of sight as we convoy changing ice - flat and smooth spots followed by cracks that requires a particular technique. Surrounded by mountains covered with light fog - the scenery is dramatic, peaceful - I don't use this word lightly, but heavenly.  I have to pinch myself, this is seriously incredible.

We stop for lunch at the base of a mountain sheltered from the wind, a bright blue stream of glacial water meanders around us. A picnic filled with choices of the sandwiches, desert bars, coffee, tea...we're promised the food will get better. I'm in one of the most remotest places on the earth, certainly cannot say this is roughing it. 

Guides from Parks Canada join us and we head across the frozen bay to Bylot Island to visit a site once home to the Thule people. This is the only time for the next few days we'll actually walk on land. The site houses old Thule 'shelters', a bowl shape dugout in the ground surrounded by rocks where they would spend the winter. The ground is sprinkled with little purple flowers, it's amazing that they grow here. There's an old grave site, a human skull is still tact along with the pelvic bones. In the distance we can see a towering iceberg, "that's our camp", one of guides says. Yay! Let's go.

Another hour long ride, skies are clearing and the sun is shining. We make a stop at a seal hole and little Bea acts as our seal, flopping about and joking around. 

Finally, the camp becomes closer and closer. Yellow and orange tents along with large round yurts that will serve as our homes. 

This is a serious operation. There is a bathroom tent complete with specialized expedition toilets, hot showers if the need arises. The lounge and cooking tent is amazing - a fireplace surrounded by books and literature, dining tables...and the all important coffee and tea bar complete with snacks galore.

The food is a whole other entry. Arctic kingdom has paired up with chef Matt Binkley and his team to create a complete dining experience in the Arctic. Phil and Robin are artists, serving an array of tasty treats.

Beside us sits a towering iceberg, adding to the backdrop of this stunning landscape.

After dinner we're ready for the floe edge, but alas, the weather here changes quicker than I can pack my camera back, the fog has socked us in, so instead we hike over to circumnavigate the iceberg. By the time we get back it's 1130 pm, the sun is still shining and it's impossible to think of bedtime…but, we must sleep.

The iceberg by the way - - - way way way cool. I can't think of a better place for an evening jaunt. 

Arctic Kingdom's Narwhal & Polar Bear Safari - Day 1

After arriving in Ottawa at 230am, a sleepless night, I was up early and back at the airport for the journey to the great white north - bound for Pond Inlet via Iqaluit. 


High above the clouds over northern Quebec, the mainland disappears as we cross over the Hudson Bay - what begins as small chunks of ice in the water below turn into lily pad shaped bergs. This is it! As we decend our way into iqaluit the land is rolling tundra, rock and ice covering the bay. 
A short drive back to the airport, I walk strait through the door and shuttled to our Dash 8. Pond inlet is a town of 1500, large for a northern community. Children playing with kites made out of plastic bags, houses raises on blocks due to the permafrost, Bylot Island across the frozen bay. The shore is dotted with Qamutiq (Inuit sleds designed to travel on ice and snow) and dogs. The wind is howling, its cold, but so remotely beautiful. This, is the Arctic. I've been dreaming about this for years and I'm here!This evening we walk to the cultural centre to learn more about the Inuit way of life - The Northern Games (kind of like the Olympics but strange competitions consisting of wrapping ones arms around each other necks and pulling on the others lip until one gives in, to standing on forefingers and kicking up to a piece of seal bait). I guess you gotta spend your time doing something? Some of these activities must have been invented in the dead and darkness of winter. The presentation concludes with drums and throat singing. The people here are interesting, smiling, shy, and so friendly. 
Its about 11pm - completely light out. Welcome to no darkness for the next 7 days. Welcome to trying to sleep. It really throws a person off...I wake at 230am to the sun peering through the curtains, time to get up yet? This will take a couple days to get used to.

With an hour to connect I'm met by smiling Arctic Kingdom staff and some of my group; 6 travelers from Germany and Switzerland. "Let's go check out the town", one of the gals says...I'm like, really? What about our flight? "Oh, there's lots of time". Hmmm…ok, cool. 
Iqaluit, the capital of Nunavut, is a population of 7000, mostly Inuit. Dirt roads, buildings built for the harsh climate - Iqaluit is a bustling little town. Our quick tour allows us to check out the legislative building, filled with beautiful artwork, furniture adorned with seal fur, narwhal tusks and other materials made from the land; the Arctic hotel, RBC bank (for some last minute cash) and shopping! 

As our flight nears Pond Inlet the scenery is dramatic - snow covered mountains, ice as far as the eye can see, the small northern community hugs the shore. Huge cracks in the ice...the land looks so unforgiving and I'm thinking what the hell have i got myself into? Oh my gosh. Excited, ecstatic and a little bit nervous. 
I'm greeted by Jane, our guide (from Canmore) and whisked down the street to the hotel waiting for the rest of the group to arrive - a mother and daughter from London, and a couple from Ohio.


The Inuit are proud people and it shows in conversations about hunting and their way of life. While everyone speaks english, the main language here is Inuktitut. It's interesting to think that this is part of Canada, but so different from anything most of us know, or even realize as part of this country. 
Nunavut is Canada's most northern territory and is one of the world's most remote settled regions. Divided from the Northwest Territories in 1999, the word, "Nunavut" translates to "Our Land". 

Living Out a Dream in the Canadian Arctic

The high arctic, many people say you'd be crazy to go there. 

I've always been fascinated with the polar regions. One of the first dreams I remember having was when I was about 6 years old, the image is still clear in my mind. My grandma, an iceberg and a polar bear. It was a nightmare, but at the same time a certain calmness, it never ended. I've had reoccuring dreams of being surrounded by ice and swimming with bears all my life. A premonition maybe?

After a delayed flight I finally arrived to my Ottawa hotel around 2am this morning, not even 6 hours later to be back at the airport headed for Pond Inlet, a small community located around 70 degrees north on Baffin Island. 

From here, we take qamutiq (local Inuit sleds) across the ice for around 5-7 hours before reaching our camp on the floe edge to spend the week experencing what is known to be one of the richest areas for marine activity in arctic waters - especially at this time of year as species like narwhal and beluga are migrating to their annual summering grounds.

So why the arctic? Why go back to winter, when we finally just escaped it? 

For me, it's not about the cold weather, or returning to snow covered landscapes. Like my dreams, there's peace here, solitude that you can't find anywhere else. As most people will say, once you go, there's always a longing to return. 

Not to mention some of the super cool things to 'check' of the list:

Crossing the Arctic Circle! Need I say more? 

Spending a week in 24 hour daylight. I've always wanted to witness the midnight sun, visualizing the earth rotated on its axis...to be a spec in the north where the sun just rotates along the horizon (or high above at this time of year, time will soon tell).

To learn about the local Inuit culture, how they live, their beliefs. 

And finally, the wildlife! Two occurrences that have stuck with me:

When I first learned that narwhals existed after watching some documentary, I was blown away. The unicorns of the sea - beautiful, intelligent and highly adapted creatures that only live in these frigid northern waters. 

The other pivotal moment that brought me here was 5 years ago at Virtuoso Week - up comes appointment #218 or something like that. Before my eyes is Arctic Kingdom's beautiful brochure filled with imagery and experiences that you only see on something like National Geographic. I was in awe, hooked. I can swim with narwhals and belugas off the floe edge? What was a floe edge? We can camp there? Seriously? When can I go? I returned back to Calgary determined to do this trip...and 5 years later, here I am. 

Stay tuned...